NUREYA NAMAZ, Film & Video major, writes: It's been 10 years since I've last traveled the globe. Let me write that again: 10 freaking long years. Going to Shanghai has made me realize just what I've missed over those 10 years: critical growth experiences. It was always the same excuses, mostly related to a lack of monetary funding. But as we all know, it's really all about a lack of initiative. Who needs money? Find the money, make the money, borrow the money; do whatever you have to do legally to just travel. We get so stuck living the now instead of living a much better one. Of course, the best time to travel is when you're a student. You have a set schedule to follow, you're traveling with future friends, and mostly everything is just comfortable because you're sharing the experience.
I truly loved the Shanghai experience. The people were awesome, the food amazing (Iwill probably never eat at an American Chinese restaurant again), and the experiences priceless. Learning about Chinese contemporary art in Shanghai actually made me feel a part of the movement. Right now the common thought in China is, "I can do anything!" but in their introspective special way, a way that's made me think differently about myself as a cinematographer. The experience opened my mind to more than the usual day-to-day grind that I definitely need a permanent break from. I sincerely hope to return and live around the world.
LO SMITH, Photography major, writes: Being back is nice. I like the fact that I can communicate with people and understand what's being said. When I got back it felt surreal to be back in my room, since I was on the go all the time. However, I do miss the good food and that our dollar over in China goes a lot further there than it does here. Shopping is a lot more fun too! It seemed that my x-mas vacation came and went. Part of me still wishes that there was more free time to sleep before my routine starts again. Oh well--later!
NUREYA NAMAZ, Film & Video major, writes: So, here it is. As another day goes by, I'm leaving Shanghai, but hopefully only to come back. I truly adore this city, and from living in Chicago definitely love the benefits here over the not-so-good stuff. For one, the Chinese food in China beats anything in Chicago. Instead of drenching their fried rice with soy sauce, they lightly saute it with whatever meat or vegetable. Taxi drivers want you to reach your destination as quickly and cheaply as possible. No matter what job the person is doing, they actually seem happy--of course, that doesn't go for everyone. Food and cost of living are more affordable here for the locals and there's superior quality in terms of clothes, tea, etc., unlike the "Made in China" stuff of the Wal-Mart variety.
The people at Biz Art are amazing. They are vast resources of knowledge on not just Chinese contemporary art, but everything China and beyond regarding history and just life. I will truly miss the people at this organization.
I could have never gone with a better group of people. Thanks and best of wishes go out to everyone. Peace out.
KATHLEEN HEATH, Cultural Studies major, writes: I have just about finished packing the last of my belongings before we leave today at 2 P.M. From the looks of my mess, you might question whether I was really visiting Shanghai or really just preparing permanent residency. It was only two days ago when I decided that I was looking forward to going home, returning to the familiar and the soft bed, but in a matter of hours I was feeling otherwise--like there was still so much ground to cover here. Our �free� day yesterday really put into perspective the amount of adventures we have the potential to have here. I caught myself commenting during the entirety of the trip that we had never really seen the same sight twice.
A couple of us yesterday returned to Crystal Jade, a stylish restaurant in the �Disney World�-like part of Shanghai, and bemoaned at the fact we would probably never have another meal served family style any time soon. Back to our own individual and excessively large American platters--and out with the sharing and regular proportions. Afterwards four of us went to the Communist Museum, ironically right next to one of the most Westernized parts of Shanghai. As Cultural Studies majors, Liz and I felt we were earning those brownies points most definitely.
Next was an awkward hot-oil massage at the same place we received foot massages. How could we resist, it was only $20 for an hour? Needless to say, it turned into a rather awkward experience. Apparently they did not use robes in these sorts of massages. I just gritted my teeth and bared, slowly mouthing, �It's...an...experience..." to try and remind myself that I would surely be laughing about this when I was older. My expectations for this trip have been far, far exceeded. I couldn�t be more jealous of us.
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: In the morning we took our final walk to BizArt to discuss our projects and reflect on the trip. We split up in the afternoon. A group of us went back to Xintiandi and ate lunch. Then we toured the Communist museum, where the first party meeting was held. Then Kate and I got oil massages back on Nanjiang Rd. The final party was wonderful. We all feasted on Manchurian Cuisine. Then we went and continued the party at Cotton�s ( a bar in the French Concession). Leaving Shanghai is so bittersweet, but it�s time to come home.
LUCA VALENTE, Film & Video major, writes: Twelve days in a foreign land...
Foreign...language, history, cuisine, economy, politics, dance, art, culture.
As humans we are able to adapt to new surroundings (if and when we allow ourselves to do so). After some time the nostalgia for where and what we are accustomed to kicks in; however, at the same moment the want to continue living down the new path is almost too exciting to break. We can go from here to there; we can morph from an elegant fork user to a finger licking animal; we can get lost in the frustration of being unable to communicate with our own species; we can fall victims to a routine; we can use art as a means to express ourselves...whatever we do, where we do it, how we do it, why we do it is what makes us who we are. We are all humans with the same abilities to love, think, hate, kill, share, fight...our differences in actions might be opposing; however, our understanding of each other is what will unite us, and allow us to call anyplace in the world, our home.
Twelve days in a foreign land where people bundle in layers to resist the cold, find refuge in a park to tickle their lovers, manipulate their way to get the best deal, open their homes with courteous hospitality, keep in check the unwritten limits of their freedoms...
Twelve days in a foreign land...? Home.
KATE SWANSON, Photography major, writes: So it's the last day...I slept in and have been lounging in my hotel room reflecting on the last 12 days. The trip couldn't have gone better. I went into this with an open mind and now it is overflowing with...everything! There is so much that has happened, so much that I have seen, that I never would have experienced if it weren't for this class. I think it is going to take some time, when I get back to Chicago, for me to really digest everything. I am about to start packing, and I am dreading the 14-hour flight home, but I can't wait to see my friends and tell them everything I know about Shanghai.
GREG WENZEL, Photography major, writes: This is our last day in Shanghai and I am sad to see it go. I am going to miss the anything-goes atmosphere, the merciless negotiating at the markets, the food, the highly upscale places I can just stomp into because I am a westerner. The exchange rate I will also miss.
Shanghai was pretty much as I expected, but it solidified and expelled many notions and stereotypes. This country is in a transition from a third-world communist country to the next world superpower. The art, commerce, culture, and ideas reflect that largely. Things are happening here.
P.J. BOROWIEC, Painting major, writes: Uighurs are considered a Chinese minority; they are from central China and Muslim. Since their land was taken over they have lived among the Chinese, and their cuisine is very revered among people I have met here. When we were by People's Square, Xinghyu took us to a Uighur restaurant for lunch. The lamb kebabs were excellent, as were the noodles in tomato and the bread. I think some of us were a little taken aback by the humbleness of the place, but we all ate a lot. So, it made no difference. Our waiter was a cut-up and sang along to his mp3 player, loudly. So far this trip has been superior in food and art, it's going to be really sad to leave...
P.J. BOROWIEC, Painting major, writes: The time I had in the Humble Administrator's garden was short. I thought a lot about what a humble administrator would be like while I was walking around, and I got lost. It's a mystery as to why I didn't use the map. I would probably have gotten to see the bonsai had I not been so bent on the fact that I wanted to go down the path with no people. It was quite beautiful and I hope I have another opportunity to see it again. I finally came upon the public map and saw that I had gone the complete opposite way of what I had originally wanted. Oh well. I made a mad dash to the exit, which was through the museum. I felt silly as soon as I was outside the wall, as it turned out I had twenty minutes to wait for the rest of the group. So the lesson here is: always use a map. Always.
LUCA VALENTE, Film & Video major, writes: A boy sits in class looking blankly up at his speaking teacher. Having lost interest in what she has to say, he turns his attention to the paper and pencil he has before him. He lightly holds his pencil and creates quick strokes on the page. They shoot out in different directions changing both in size and intensity. The teacher walks over and takes the sheet from under the boy's pencil...
A young man walks down the street kicking at an empty Coke can. He bumps shoulders
with a foreign man, who drops a book filled with images of Monet's paintings. The young man picks up the book and scans the opened picture. The foreigner nods his head as he takes back the book. The young man smiles as a new part of his brain sets into action, overwhelmingly flooding with creative ideas. He turns against the crowd of pedestrians and runs, pushing his way through...
A man stands before a painted canvas; one, geared by a factory-full of passion, which took weeks to prepare. The time has come for him to reveal to the world his thoughts and commentary on his and everyone else's rights. The line of eager viewers stand outside cuddled in the cold. As the man looks past the two officials examining his painting, he can feel the people outside; he senses their array of stories and backgrounds; he tastes their curiosity; he sympathizes with their struggles; he smells their lack of awareness. He nervously taps his palms together. The doors open and the people begin to slowly pour in. As they approach, the man extends his arm, and turns back towards his painting, just in time to see it being taken out of the exhibition. He stands knowingly, as the crowds of art enthusiasts push past him.
An older man sits silently in the corner of a large gallery. He blankly looks past the works of art and viewers, sipping Coke from a plastic cup. A man shakes hands with a woman in front of a painting across the room, and makes his way towards the older man. The man proclaims the older man's international success. The older man nods; lost. Time passes and yet the part of his brain once activated with intense passion now comes to a screeching halt, as the continual reproduction of the same genre of artwork stands to be continued. The older man sits in the corner the entire night until he is left alone; just him and his thoughts...
GREG WENZEL, Photography major, writes: "To live outside the law, one must be honest." --taken from Bob Dylan's "Absolutely Sweet Marie"
As soon as we stomped on the tour bus that took us from the Shanghai airport to our motel, we realized that the driving in Shanghai was something special. Our bus driver, a hard-working, Shanghainese spitting madman, had the cutthroat driving techniques of a contestant in "Deathrace 3000." These tactics include: veering through red lights, insane u-turns that many times involve the use of the sidewalk, and near-death clippings of pedestrians on bicycles and motor scooters and otherwise (which is strangely refreshing in a morbid sense, after dealing with some critical-mass bicycle crazies back in Chicago). The use of the horn is not something to be meek about in this town; it is used as much as the steering wheel or the stick shift, just another device to control your environment. I have been in cabs where the driver honks habitually for no real reason all, just some weird schizo impulse from the brain.
The transitioning state of Shanghai from an old third-world city to a modern one skews the driving as well. Most taxi drivers I have noticed have two forms of driving, calm "western-styled" driving in the more gentrified areas, where the law, designated lanes, and cops are prevalent. Then there is the lawless, cutthroat style mentioned beforehand in the old areas and the highways. There are no real traffic laws here, at least not ones that are routinely enforced. This creates a lawless driving experience where anything goes and nothing is bogged down by rigged western-styled mentalities. There is no room here for pussyfooting and half-assed grandma driving; it's do-or-die Darwinism in the clinches. It keeps one honest and real, or sends you into a heaping mass of insanity and twisted metal.
My attempt to Google Shanghai accident statistics proved to be futile, but I
have a feeling the rates might actually be lower.
NUREYA NAMAZ, Film & Video major, writes: Yesterday, we went to the silk factory and the tour was amazing. I felt like I'd entered Bob Barker's "The Price is Right." Within the span of an hour, and believe me time went by very fast, we were shown through four different rooms of this factory. We went from seeing the worms soaking in water baths to easily remove the silk, to pieces of silk being stretched to the size of a full-size comforter. Once we saw and understood the process, our energetic leader showed us their silk-comforter store. A couple of us bought silk-comforter covers and silk comforters, and yes, so did I. I bought my back in the stunning Suzhou Museum's (designed by the famous I.M. Pei) gift shop, though. But anyway, we were whisked away not to the exit after making our luxurious purchases, but to a disco-like fashion runway.
What is going on?!
We laughed--seriously laughed, as we sat in seats in front of the runway. Music by Enigma ("Sadness") pumped loudly through the speakers as we waited. As the music shifted to something more Britney Spears-like, the models came out, varying in age from early twenties to fifties, wearing various silk garments. At first I thought this was just a "see-the-silk-in-action" type of show, but low and behold, there was more.
Yes, here comes the "Price is Right" finale. After the fashion show, two double doors
I never noticed before opened up before our very eyes and revealed a warehouse of silk
garments, scarves, bags, ties, etc. I was practically in silk heaven! And yes, even though
we told ourselves we wouldn't buy much--again, we bought and bought. Hey, we are in China, and that's good enough of an excuse.
KATE SWANSON, Photography major, writes: Today was our free day! After meeting at BizArt and going over our final projects, a bunch of us went back to the Crystal Jade restaurant for lunch. I got hot sour soup and really good chicken, it was excellent! After lunch I went with Liz to get her hair cut while Katie and Jake went to get massages...more on that later. The hair-cutting experience was quite interesting because of the language barrier. Liz looked through some magazines and showed them a picture of what she wanted--everything was going well (I was watching the stylist like a hawk) until they put her hair in rollers and tried to perm it! We were like, NOOOOO! No permanent! Anyway, everything worked out and Liz's hair turned out beautiful! When we were done there, we went next door to get Katie and Jake after their massage, then we headed to the restaurant for our final meal together (sad). It was a Manchurian restaurant; the women that worked there were all dressed up and sang for us, it was really fun!
NUREYA NAMAZ, Film & Video major, writes: I get in the taxi cab and hand the torn magazine page to the driver, a young man probably in his early twenties. He squints as he looks at the Chinese words, and hesitates as he inches the car forward--just a little. Then, smiling, he shakes his head telling me, "Sorry." I smile and leave to get another cab. Immediately another car pulls up. This time the driver looks to be in his fifties. I show him the paper, and after mulling over the address, he springs the car forward into traffic. Yes, we are off! It takes about 15 minutes to arrive at a bustling home and tourist attraction known as the Yu gardens. My total fare came to about 15 yuan, which is a little more than two U.S. dollars.
Yes, I've finally made it. A little off to my right resides the building I am looking for. Outside, the structure is a nice light blue, and on top of the huge double doorway, Arabic and Mandarin name the entrance. This is a mosque, also known as a masjid. As I enter the structure, I'm amazed at how beautiful everything is. On the outside, even though the building is a private place for prayer, it's a public space for welcoming strangers like myself. You won't find pictures of people or animals on the walls, only simple Arabic calligraphy and mostly white walls with the occasional color--mostly blue and green.
When walking in, passing the Islamic bookstore and a meeting room, there's a small open courtyard. To the far right and left are long corridors leading to wash rooms for men and women, respectively. Walking into another building are two large wings: a prayer room and a meeting/banquet hall. I washed, prayed, and walked around taking pictures. People either smiled at me or gave me the greetings, but no one asked why I was there. From what I could see, there were about three people total in the whole complex, but eventually more and more people arrived. And then I saw what was going on. A wedding was about to take place. In the room across from the prayer hall, men and women, Muslims and non-Muslims, gathered together for a wedding. At first I wasn't sure if I could take pictures of the wedding, so someone asked the groom for me, who said, "Oh, yes, assalamu alaikum (peace be with you), please do! Thank you for coming!" I then said, "wa-alaikum salaam" (and may peace be with you) back, and congratulated the both of them.
Honestly, the whole experience was surreal. Of all days I chose to come to this mosque,
there's a wedding! The bride wore traditional white and the groom a tuxedo. The imam
(priest) spoke in Chinese, Arabic, and English. And unlike in most U.S. or Middle Eastern
masaajid (plural for masjid), the women and men sit and stand next to each other regardless of there being designated spaces for men and women. Even after the ceremony, in another room where there were sweets (powdered-sugared fried dough and chocolates) laid out for everyone, both men and women sat next to each other as if nothing was an issue.
I made some new friends (we exchanged e-mails and took pictures together) and I got a chance to talk to the imam, who said that "things are better" for the Muslim population
in China than they have been before. He wouldn't go into detail about that, which is in
line with what I've experienced from others. No one wants to talk politics, and I respect that. They have their reasons.
KATE SWANSON, Photography major, writes: Today we woke up and walked to BizArt to meet with the artists that were in the opening last night. (Most of the pieces were video art and installations.) We got to ask them questions about their work and find out firsthand the ideas behind their art. We also had the chance to share our work with them. I brought a disk with me and showed them some random work I've done and they asked me questions; it was pretty cool! I got the chance to sit and chat with the only girl that was in the exhibition. Ironically, her piece was my favorite out of all of the art I saw last night. Her piece was called "Happy Children"; it was a video showing Chinese children at school on the playground. It contrasted them all filing out and marching in place like a little army, and how the children played when they were free after school...
Tonight I just got back from a traditional music performance. There were two solo musicians, they each played different instruments, not sure what they are called...the music was beautiful. It made me want to fall asleep, but in a good way...it put me in a trance! We only have a few more days in Shanghai...I can't believe how fast this trip has flown by!
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: Sunday we took a day trip to Suzhou. Suzhou is an old Chinese city also referred to as the Venice of Asia. Not quite as many canals as expected. Suzhou is also the birthplace of world famous architect I.M. Pei. Pei is the main funder behind the Suzhou Museum. The museum has great examples of ancient art, as well as examples of gardens owned by ancient Chinese nobility. In the afternoon we went to one of the largest traditional gardens in all of China. Even in the cold winter months the gardens were beautifully cared for, and it was a very relaxing environment. Before we left Suzhou we were able to take a tour of the silk-making process. We were even treated to a silk fashion show. Needless to say, almost everyone bought something; I guess that is why the tour was free. Back in Shanghai we ate hot pot again. I love the food here, but I won�t miss my meal staring back at me.
KRISTIN IRIS JOHNSON, Fiction Writing major, writes: We've been to a lot of galleries and a lot of the art is beautiful, a lot of it is provocative, and a lot of it is crap. Some of the contemporary work here is art because it's edgy and new for the time, not because it's actually good. I can't help feeling that in ten or 20 years some people will wonder, "Why was that ever considered art?"
My feelings aren't exactly unfounded. I have been told that there are young artists here who see famous Chinese contemporary artists making big money and getting international fame for their work. These young artists then try to make something just to get money. They don't care about the art, or the message or self-expression, they care about trying to make a name for themselves. Victoria, the curator at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Shanghai, said that young Chinese artists try to act so tortured, but they really have a good life. They just sit around with watching TV, playing video games, talking on their cell phones, and basically doing what American kids are doing, so they have nothing to complain about, but they try to make artwork to the contrary just to make money. Work that comes out of that mentality does not come out very well. Don't get me wrong, some of the artwork I've seen--most of it--is fantastic and inspiring, but there is still some that I can tell was just for the money, or just to make a name.
LO SMITH, Photography major, writes: I wish i could stay longer, but at the same time, I am happy to be going back. I have figured out how to do my final project. I am just not sure on how to display it. Dad, if you are reading this, I think the credit-card bill shouldn't be that bad....? And just for you I'll try to post more photos.
Today we went to see more Chinese gardens and a silk factory. The tour guide went through it pretty fast and it took our class longer to shop, which was funny! There was also a "fashion show" to show what we could buy. That was really entertaining, too. I bought a comforter that has silk stuffing on the inside. It is supposed to keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. I just need to buy a cover for it. I really am glad that I got to go on this trip and would like to thank my dad and teachers for making it possible.
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: BizArt was once again on the agenda. We met with the artists behind the exhibition of the previous night. We had a discussion about Chinese art and American culture. Lunch was once again an adventure. We went to the Yi Caf� in the Shangri-La, where we dined on a gourmet buffet. Almost every Asian food was represented. They also had a dessert bar that would make anyone�s inner child squeal. Later there was a performance of traditional Chinese folk music. Unfortunately, I was feeling under the weather and I slept through it.
GREG WENZEL, Photography major, writes: Liz Foley and I had a weird and morbid fascination to see how the Chinese do Wal-Mart. So Saturday, after our overly decadent lunch at the second-floor caf� in the Shangri-La, we eventually worked our way via cab to the Wal-Mart of Shanghai (a.k.a. the United States Embassy). (The caf� in the Shangri-La, by the way, consisted of chocolate and vanilla syrup fountains, gourmet meats of all kinds, and a small army of gourmet chefs manning each of the seven or so buffet tables of food from all across the world, and we only paid about $30!)
The two-storied Wal-Mart was located in an uneasy and smoggy part-residential, part-industrial neighborhood on the edge of the relatively new Pudong District. There was something unexplainable and uneasy in the air. When the Chinese taxi driver finally figured out where we were going based on our hazy directions we gave him, he let off a cheap chuckle not too soon before we swooped out of his cab.
There was some kind of raffle/concert/corporate event taking place out front on a miniature stage, which we promptly scooted by in a hurry. The building was decorated with banners advertising the upcoming Chinese New Year, which featured the Wal-Mart smiley-face logo made to look like a pig (there are so many cheap and easy metaphors to make there I wont even try).
After ignoring the greeters and making our way through a confusing entrance, we came upon a sight no person should have to handle: a crappy and disheveled western-styled Wal-Mart packed with locals egger to snap up cheap crap like a pack of piranhas descending on a orangutan carcass. There were many typical western-styled racks and piles of merchandise like blue jeans, cheap electronics, and drinks made by the Coca-Cola Company. However, what was really interesting was the locally flavored merchandise. This included racks of smoked and unpackaged chickens complete with the head, piles of pig legs, cheap Chinese New Year decorations, and tanks of live fish. It was like the old-styled dive shops that line the streets in old Shanghai, but channeled through a Wal-Mart in rural Iowa. Similar crap, jobs, and habits.
After walking through this ninth level of hell on two floors (which was connected by a transportation device that is somewhere between a tunnel, an escalator, and a treadmill, also packed with crap and cheap advertisements), we had to escape. However, we got lost in maze of people, cheap merchandise racks, and a flank of cash registers that numbered into the seventies. After circling the main floor in a frenzy like a dog trying chase his tail, we finally just gave up and walked out the entrance with strange stares from Chinese eyes.
We promptly hailed a cab and made it back in one piece to the uneasy safety of Motel 168, where I cried for Chinese culture.
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: Museum Day. In the morning we went to the Shanghai Museum of Art. This was all the traditional art of China. They had wonderful collections of bronzes, jades, currencies, painting, furniture, and ceramics. We ate lunch at a western Chinese restaurant, which was run by Muslims, so no pork. The food was surprisingly just like a Mediterranean restaurant--spicy and delicious. In the afternoon we went to MoCA, which is the Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai. It was a beautiful building located in the center of the People's Park. It was exhibiting the 30 most influential Chinese artists in contemporary art. We went back to BizArt for an exhibition opening. Then we went as group to the oldest English-language bar in Shanghai. Faces was excellent; they also had a great Thai restaurant in the second floor.
KATHLEEN HEATH, Cultural Studies major, writes: Rolling out of bed now. According to everyone else�s complaints on the trip about getting over jetlag, I think I�ve officially rewired my internal clock. I�d like to say that I�m �naturally� waking up at 7:00 A.M., but like in the States, I�ve already started sleeping in here. No time for that, though--we are down to our home stretch with three official days left, including today. The last week really snuck up on us. I don�t know exactly where and when I discovered this, but a couple days ago I officially decided that I don�t feel as lost here anymore. And that�s great.
The past few days have been packed, considering the near-closing of our trip. Just yesterday we visited the Shanghai Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. At the Shanghai Museum we first began in the Chinese bronzes room observing ancient relics that Hollywood would just love to get their hands on as props. Caught lunch at, don�t scoff, but at an �Italian� restaurant. The four of us found ourselves in the most touristy spot yet, with options like burgers, fries, and mini-pizzas to choose from. And we did. I can�t say I was the biggest fan of burgers before I left; in fact I was nearly vegetarian, but there was excitement to say the least in eating the familiar. Excitement and nausea. Even after a week and a half I think I�ve conditioned my stomach to not greet those types of foods so kindly anymore. I�ve been trying to explain this to the group--unsuccessfully, I figure--but there is something here about the food that makes being �full� less painful.
The most interesting happening in the last few days, what I�m going to tell my friends first if I can get a hold of them in the next few days, was our experience at Radiance Digital Entertainment. We went to a studio that housed the animators that are going to be responsible for the video game �Beach Volleyball� in the next year. The animators have been working feverishly in the past year to produce this sport/fighting game in a �highly sexualized� style. When we were there, it seemed to be the context of the tour to express how important it was to make the characters �sexy� to please their client. I was holding back some laughter believing that I was in the headquarters of where they make anime porn. I watched as the animators worked on every last pixel of the �perfect breasts� and added thong lines to their characters--they really weren�t kidding. After hovering over the shoulder of one animator, grueling over the exact shadowing and volume of the �perfect ass� with use of a photograph, our guide Evan told us that it was �very important for the staff to have a large collection of (pornographic) photos for reference.�
LO SMITH, Photography major, writes: It has been seven days since we left and sometimes it feels longer, maybe because we are doing so much and trying to cover it all at the same time--but sometimes it feels like we just got here, and that could be because I am having a lot of fun. Every day is like a Friday on this trip! I am still worried that I will not be able to figure out my final project.
I have been enjoying shopping and I like that our dollar goes further here, but I do not like the beggars here...well, I don't like the beggars anywhere, but here they are pretty forceful. They get right in your face and don't leave you alone, either. I am getting used to having our windows open in our rooms or in a taxi or the bus. I think I am starting to understand how the art market works. Here, the artist finds what sells the best and makes the work in that media that the artist likes to work on. We also got to see my dad's friend--Lian is really cool! He invited us to his place and he ordered pizza, pop, and beer. His place is really fancy and has a nice view of Pu Dong and across the river. He even hung out with us at the bar called Bats. So far so good--this trip has been a real good experience for me. I understand Julia a lot better than before, and my friend Chung, in that I know now how it feels to be a foreigner in a different country.
[PHOTO: Lo Smith after a long day of looking at art. Photo by Liz Chilsen]
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: Tongji University was an experience. We toured the campus, and met with some of the students there. It was nice, because a few spoke pretty good English. They even spoke about communism in a candid sort of way. Later in the afternoon we went to Radiance studios, which is an online gaming-creation studio. The CEO was very knowledgeable and had a great knack for turning art into money. Then, we were hosted by a Chinese businessman for pizza and beer. We invited him out with us for the night. We started the night at Bats, which is a bar in the basement of the Pudong Shangri-La. We had some fun there. Then Greg, Kate, and I went to the 36th floor of the hotel where we found Jade. Jade on 36 is one of the most beautiful bars in all of Shanghai. It has great views of the Huangpu River and the Bund.
KRISTIN IRIS JOHNSON, Fiction Writing major, writes: Traffic here is insane! Apparently no one knows the rules of the road, or there may not be any, and cars always have the right of way. Crossing the street can be a life-or-death situation if you don't watch out. The cars will blow right through the light even if it's red, and they won't stop for you. The bikes are the same way. There are a lot of people on bikes. During rush hour you just have to jump in the street when the light turns and hope that everyone weaves around you. The key is to not stop walking, because when I stopped so as not to get hit by a girl on a moped, my foot got hit by someone on a bike behind me. I wish I had a picture of my face as I went through that sea of bikers. It was probably a mixture of terror and fascination. Many of the non-cosmopolitan areas have market stands on the sidewalks stretching from the buildings to the curb, so a lot of the time you have to walk in the streets with the cars and bikes.
P.J. BOROWIEC, Fine Arts major, writes: 
Monday was spent at BizArt learning and reviewing contemporary Shanghai artists that work with BizArt. I was very much into Hu Jieming, Xu Zhen, and Yang Fudong. Tuesday we visited ShangArt, and I couldn't get enough of Zhao Bandi, as I'm a sucker for a good sense of humor. Lorence, the founder, spoke with us for some time, and it was great getting his perspective on the current art market. We vistied many places and I can't say I saw one thing that wasn't interesting. I was especially captivated by Cai Hongshuo's photos at OFoto Gallery. The color, presentation, and subject of his work get thumbs up across the board. Yesterday I forgot my camera, so it only exists in my memory (and everybody else's cameras).
We stopped by the bird and flower market, and it was really something else; colorful and full of crickets. More importantly it was calmer than any other market I had visited, so I strolled around, stopping back by the bunnies and mice. I left to go down the side street and tried to buy a coat, but realized mid-haggle I didn't have much money. Oops! After the market we ate delicious dim sum at The Crystal Jade, which was in this mall that reminded me of malls in Germany. Very sparse and minimal in design, with high ceilings and glass walls. The Communism Museum was conveniently located across the street from the mall. I did not go, but I heard it was very... communist.
Our guide, Xhingyu, has been wonderful and always sends us to the right place, so when a few of us wanted to go karaoke our hearts out, she recommended "Party World." This is because they have English songs, while most karaoke places do not. We went, and it was a party: the place is gigantic and full of marble and eagle statues. You get your own room, reverb, and plenty of drinks. The videos for the songs were really incredible! I wonder if anyone will post pictures...
[PHOTO: Viewing works by Zhao Bandi at ShangArt. Photo by Liz Chilsen]
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: Today we went to the bird and flower market. PETA would have had a field day at this place. I didn�t mind much how the animals were kept. Then we went to the antique market, which was full of mass-produced knockoffs aimed at tourists. Most of my trip-mates fell for the trap. The thing I found most interesting today was going to Xintiandi. Not only did this neighborhood house the first meeting place of the Communist Party, it also had the most expensive stretch of shops and boutiques (kind of ironic). After that we went to Three on the Bund and spoke to the curator of the gallery there. Then we went and got massages--I know what you're thinking, no happy endings this time. At night the festivities were great--we took a big group to Party World, which is a karaoke palace. Each party gets their own room to sing and dance the night away.
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: Round 2 on Moganshan Lu.We explored all M50 had to offer. We saw studio spaces as well as galleries. We spoke with artists and gallery curators. Lunch wasn�t anything to write home about other than it was free. We toured almost the entire contemporary art scene in one day. I went home to rest after all that walking. In the evening I went to a French restaurant called Nova. It was very nice. There where many western faces, which was also nice to see.
ELIZABETH FOLEY, Cultural Studies major, writes: Being a vegetarian in Shanghai is not as hard as I first thought it might be. On the night we arrived the group ate at a vegetarian restaurant. The food was great; I know I will be craving it once I return to Chicago. The language barrier is hard sometimes. Yesterday morning before breakfast Kristin and I were walking around near the hotel taking photos when a police officer began to yell at us. Of course we had no idea what we were being yelled at for. Kristin tried to speak Chinese, saying, �We speak English,� at which point an older woman who happened to be walking by began to laugh at our situation. Finally I let the officer look though my camera to see the photos I had taken. After reviewing the pictures, the officer pointed down the street and motioned for us to leave.
KATHLEEN HEATH, Cultural Studies major, writes: Stayed home last night, forgoing an opportunity to drink at a local �pub� with my classmates. It's not like me to ditch on an opportunity, drinking in Shanghai being far from ordinary, but the accumulation of jet lag and general fatigue/stress was my nightcap drink for the evening. I instead miraculously caught my boyfriend online before work (poor guy, it was 7:00 a.m.), and finally admitted that even the most �independent� and �adventurous� get a little homesick. Without saying �lost in translation,� I�ll just mention the general consensus of the group being that we�re having a hard time with the language barrier. It�s funny. We�ll be in a crowd of what seems like hundreds and still be capable of having a conversation, in regular volume, simply because it's the only English heard. Our ability to tune into each other is sort of sweet, definitely an attribute to us being close this trip. When a merchant notices us from a mile away, sore thumbs that we are, and addresses us in English, it�s almost startling.
We spent the day at BizArt yesterday, and for its entirety I was just caught up in how lucky I was to be here. I can�t even begin to wrap my head around our location or the massive amount of activities we have specially lined up for us. It's one thing to travel to China, but it�s another to go with like-minded people and teachers who�ve made for us an itinerary that�s entirely unique. We have this access to the city that no college backpacker could stumble upon on their own. At BizArt we spent a good quantity of time looking at art and watching video pieces by famous contemporary Shanghai artists. The works of Zu Zhen were particularly impressive in terms of absurdity, originality, and theory. It will be impossible to forget some of those images, and even more impossible to not subconsciously want to replicate others in pursuit of my own artwork. With a seemingly endless catalogue, one of the many pieces that stick out to me is �renter�s space� in a stranger�s home. On one wall he rented he used the space to install a traffic light, fully functional during the length of its stay. The one that roused the most laughter was the giant white cross in the kitchen sink of what we�re told was a Catholic household. You might guess that piece did not receive the same benefit of duration as the others.
It�s not that I �felt� like I was witnessing something exclusive to the comparatively small amount of Shanghai artists�it literally was a rare, the rarest, opportunity for an art(ish) student from Columbia. The videos themselves were even tricky for BizArt to possess. Today we�re going to visit the numerous galleries that are in proximity to BizArt. But before that can happen, I ought to get some food in me from the motel�s �continental breakfast.� I�m slowly crafting a decent breakfast out of the make-or-break items available. I�ve had my share of pork dumplings for the rest of my life here, so any entity with a mysterious inside is not an option. I guess I�ve learned that despite my previous beliefs, I am...a picky eater. I think the key is to have Elena around when hunger strikes.
NUREYA NAMAZ, Film major, writes: Fried tofu with a spicy chili sauce, quail eggs, and roasted sweet potatoes are just some of the excellent cuisine I've eaten from street vendors and in restaurants. When I travel I tend to remember my interactions with the people and the food. I have a taste for all things personal. I have to agree with the masses (my fellow classmates) for once and say that Shanghai is an ultimate experience. It's not very often when one experiences what it's like to feel accepted in a culture not your own. And I feel that the Shanghainese accept me even though we don't speak the same language or share the same politics. Simply, we are complete strangers who understand one another.
What I've realized for the past three days of being here is that what America has forced down my throat about China has been nothing but our own propaganda. At least in Shanghai, and from what I've observed, the Chinese are very much open. In other words, they simply don't care about the stupid stuff or sweat the small stuff. No matter if you are wearing a business suit or you're a peasant, no one's going to stare at you if you hang your laundry between two street poles, eat some roasted chicken legs while walking to wherever, or if you simply want to throw a can over and over again into a receptacle. No one cares. What may seem weird to some Americans may seem to be just a respectable way of living to the Chinese. We're talking about having a 360-degree view of the world, instead of our linear one. Also, the energy of this place is amazingly positive. This is going to sound incredibly corny, but every day I wake up rested and with a smile on my face. There's an upbeat vibe here that I see in the people's faces, be it when I'm sharing a laugh with a passerby over taking a picture of some random building, or simply sharing a smile in greeting.
I thought that being in China, I'd also see many officers wearing olive-green suits with a touch of red. I've only seen three. I've seen only three pictures of Mao Zedong in Shanghai: one in a quotation book sold in a market place, on the yuan bills, and on my friend Greg's watch showing Mao comically waving to the masses. Granted, there have been problems with the government between some experimental artists and the government shutting down their exhibitions due to a lack of true understanding. And these occurrences happen also because there's no one in the government who's an expert on art, especially of the contemporary kind. The most jail time any contemporary artist's spent is about a few days. There are no excruciating tortures involved from a government that doesn't understand how anyone can create anything without money being the end goal.
Later, I want to explore the Muslim side of Chinese culture. From what I understand, the Muslim population is second to the majority. So, later, I'll pass the word on the shared and private spaces of the Chinese Muslims.
Oh, and one more food mention: Kit Kat bars and Minute Maid have never tasted better than in China. I give a huge thumbs up to the chocolate and real orange in Shanghai.
LUCA VALENTE, Film major, writes: He stands at the edge of the sidewalk holding his breath...the air is full of toxic smog that rises from the cars and construction zones to create an overcasting that completely blocks the energy that attempts to seep down from the sun. Cars violently drive by, rushed to reach their destinations. The traffic switches and the buff red man at the opposite end of the street turns into a brisk walking green fellow. His foot begins to inch down from the sidewalk...there is a moment of hesitation. This "other world," as so many refer to it back home, carries the risk of being something new. Something different. Something that could potentially not be understood or accepted. People step around him as he holds his hanging foot over the edge...the decision to be made: step into this new world with the risk of changing, or step back into the old with the risk of never changing. He straightens his back and looks forward as determination, mixed with curiosity, builds up inside of him. He pushes his foot down onto the street, only to quickly retract it as a swarm of bicyclists flies down the road with no intention of slowing down...a sign of a society in which the people are not only different, but a completely different species? Spitting on a restaurant floor, making u-turns across four lanes, continually honking the horn as they drive, selling home-made food on the streets, servicing "massages" to hotel guests, living in communal homes, continually demolishing and reconstructing buildings, accepting anyone to freely walk into their homes, congregating together in the parks in the early hours of the day, burning paper money for their ancestors, bargaining their trade...as bikes and scooters continue to sparingly pass by, he steps into the street with no hesitation and weaves his way across the road, satisfyingly reaching his destination. Survival. Humaneness.
LO SMITH, Photography major, writes: A lot has happened in the last three days. I love Shanghai!!! But the language barrier sucks and the toilets are just holes in the ground. We have seen the Buddhist Jade temple, which I loved, and Old Shanghai. We also have seen the French and British Concessions. I am so glad that my roommate and our group rocks. I have some pics that i think are interesting that I would like to share. I have enjoyed the food, haggling for gifts for back home, and the tea-house experience. Unfortunately, my best friend Julia cannot come to Shanghai, but my dad's friend from work might be able to set something up for the "gang"; he also lives here in Shanghai. I hope I can find a good final art project for this class--that is my only fear. Well, besides that the drivers come first in China, and the walkers enter the "no man's land" [when they enter the street.] I usually see my life flash before my eyes every time I enter a cab or the tour bus!
PHOTO: Buddhist Jade Temple, when the monk came to open the other door to the temple. Photo by Lorraine Smith.
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: We spent the day at BizArt on Moganshan Lu. We were introduced to a ton of Chinese contemporary art. We ate lunch at a caf� near BizArt. I had the handmade noodles. After BizArt we went as a group to an awesome hot pot restaurant. Hot pot is sort of like fondue. Then once again we went out on the town. We can�t really paint the town red because it�s already Red China.
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: The second day began at Jade Buddha Temple. Beautiful craftsmanship and artwork was everywhere. Right next to the worship centers were gift shops, which we found amusing. Then we went to the old city square. I got lost in all the shops, but I managed to find a wonderful restaurant. We then visited Bizart and drank tea. After eating dinner at a Shanghai dive, a few friends and I went drinking and driving...go-karts, which was a blast! There is so much to do here. When I got back to the hotel I was exhausted, so I went to bed. About an hour later I got a knock on the door of my room. I thought it was Greg and Luca playing a joke on me, but to my complete surprise when I opened the door a Chinese prostitute wanted to come in and give me a �massage.� I was shocked and I slammed the door in her face. That is definitely an experience I will not soon forget.
KRISTIN IRIS JOHNSON, Fiction Writing major, writes: The first few days have been great�except the pollution. The pollution is so bad here that there was smog inside the airport. All you smell is pollution most of the time, unless a street vendor is cooking food nearby (often the case). During the day the city is covered in a blanket of smog, and only sometimes does the sun shine through. 
At night, though, the city glows. It lights up bright and glitters. From the Glamour Bar you can look across the Huangpu River at the financial district, Pudong. It�s beautiful. Shanghai really was built for the nighttime.
Since I am more interested in Chinese history and culture, I would like to explore how traditional art techniques such as landscape paintings and scrolls are being used in the contemporary art scene. [PHOTO: Lorraine Smith, Pudong at night with the full moon]
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: I ate breakfast at the hotel. The reason I wrote this is that I was unaware that ice was not a part of Chinese culture, but after that little surprise I was okay. We began the day�s tours on the Bund. We looked over the Huangpu River and observed the architecture of Pudong; which, it was explained to us, was nothing but rice paddies and warehouses ten years ago. We continued down the Bund and visited all the buildings from Shanghai�s past. After the Bund we traveled south to the French Concession, which was not a colony, but just the right for the French to live and do business in Shanghai. In the French Concession a shanty containing 20 families is directly across from a million-dollar-per-unit condominium. After touring the French Concession we went to the Shanghai Development Museum to see what the city has planned for the next ten years. There was an amazing miniature model of what Shanghai will look like in 2010, in time for the World Exposition.
That was all before lunch. For lunch we went to a market and ate dumplings, and I added oysters on the half shell. We walked the market for a while, then a few others and I went back to the hotel to rest. Later we went to an exhibition opening put on by young artists from Shanghai, which was interesting, to say the least. Then we went back to the Bund for drinks. After drinks a few of us took the psychedelic tunnel to Pudong. Then, finally, we went to bed.
Well, I have to be up in four hours in order to get to the airport on time. But I'm not worried, I know I will sleep plenty on the plane. Unless there's a crying baby. I really hope there isn't a crying baby...
I'm not really worried about the flight or this trip in general. I've been to Australia, New Zealand, France, and Japan... when I heard the flight was only 14 hours, I figured... what a cinch! Australia was about 16 hours. Not too worried about the language, because I know I'll get by. Though I have amazed myself at how light I can pack now. I think that the element of excitement about going to a different country is sort of gone, because of my previous travels. I'm very laid back about this whole ordeal. I guess my only concern is if the homework/schoolwork part of it is going to stress me enough that I'm not going to fully enjoy this trip. God knows the reading packet was enough.
Here are my questions for this trip:
1. I wonder what the graffiti looks like in Shanghai, if there is any.
2. I wonder about the difference between American Chinese and real Chinese food.
3. What is their fashion inspired by?
4. What wildlife might I see there, if any?
5. How do they treat American foreigners versus other foreigners?
Odd questions I know, but over my travels, it is this sort of stuff I think about.
LUCA VALENTE, Film & Video major, writes: The sun rises from the horizon blinding early morning commuters. A new day. A day of possibility, a day of change, a day of boredom, a day of consistency, a day of birth, a day of death, a day of risk, a day of interaction, a day of communication, a day of silence, a day of responsibility, a day of beauty, a day of worry, a day of amazement, a day of hope, a day of loss, a day of adventure, a day of repose, a day of life...
Miles across a vast spherical mass the sun hides beneath the horizon and artificial light illuminates the late-night wanderer. The end of a day. A day of possibility, a day of change, a day of boredom, a day of consistency, a day of birth, a day of death, a day of risk, a day of interaction, a day of communication, a day of silence, a day of responsibility, a day of beauty, a day of worry, a day of amazement, a day of hope, a day of loss, a day of adventure, a day of repose, a day of life...
Here or there. Chicago or Shanghai. Past or present. Male or female. Catholic or Buddhist. French or Italian. Cancer or flu.
What changes?
Why?
Do the differences bring us apart or rather bring us even closer together?
Where is the answer? In art. In the heavens. In our hearts. In our blood. In Chicago. In Shanghai. In Venice. In Perth. In a tumor. In the sun. In the stars. In our minds. In our hands. In our wants. In our skin. In our culture. In our eyes.
The sun rises as the sun sets...
JACOB MALONE, Radio major, writes: It's finally here: all the waiting, reading, and payments are over. We will board the plane to Shanghai, China at 11 a.m. tomorrow. These past couple days I have been sick, but that has passed as well. I need to rest, but the excitement is keeping me up. I don't know what to expect. The two things people have said to me the most are: Are you going to visit the Great Wall? and, You better not get into trouble and end up in Chinese jail. I'm sure I won't end up in jail, but I'll probably get into trouble. The questions I want answered by the end of trip are as follows:
1) How important was the role of �official art� and propaganda art to the communist regime?
2) Due to Shanghai�s modern approach to business, will Shanghai emerge as the financial capital?
3) As an artist, what are your views about living and working in a communist nation?
4) So much of Chinese thought is collective. Capitalism is based on the individual. What makes the Chinese so adept at practicing capitalism?
5) Will China ever reach its economic goals with socialist values and a slow reform process?
We'll see if they get answered. Talk to you in Shanghai.
LIZ FOLEY, Cultural Studies major, writes: It is the night before I leave this country for the first time in my life (unless you count Canada). I am completely excited, though the thought of boarding a plane that is heading to China feels surreal. At first my family (especially my mom) felt uncomfortable about this trip. It was not until my parents began reading books and seeing photos of Shanghai that their fears were somewhat calmed. My friends, on the other hand, are jealous that I am leaving. I was inspired to take this class in Shanghai by friends who moved to America to be au pairs. I really want to experience culture shock! I want to see the things that I have been reading about.
Here are my five questions...
1) Is Shanghai currently experiencing gentrification?
2) How are pre-planned towns such as Xintiandi changing the neighborhoods in China?
3) Is there still a clear division between foreign and indigenous Shanghai residents?
4) How much does censorship affect the art that is being produced in China?
5) When an artist is academically trained in China, how much is their education affected by Western techniques?
NUREYA NAMAZ, Film & Video major, writes: I really don't know what to say except that I'm very anxious. Of course, this happens to me usually before a flight. Once I'm in the air-I'm game. I'm going to China simply because I love having an opportunity to immerse myself in a culture that's unfamiliar to my own. Yet at the same time, I'm eager to discover what similarities there are between myself and the residents of Shanghai. All in all, it's all about, "Hey, it's Shanghai! That cool city I keep hearing about!" I've dreamed of going to China just from meeting people originally from there and from their addictive entertainment culture, be it film, music, fashion, etc.
I hope to make my experience worthwhile�take lots of pictures (ask Liz for picture- taking tips, etc.), and write in my journal LOTS. I've never "studied" abroad before.
Okay, I have to go back to packing LIGHTLY. Oh, this is so difficult ...Oops, forgot to study the language ...
LORRAINE (LO) SMITH, Photography major, writes: I am excited about going on this trip! I am little distressed, because I've got to get this homework done. However, almost done. I am very interested to see how Shanghai has dealt with the new and the old. I am also excited that my best friend is in Beijing right now and it would be awesome if we could go shopping together. She's of American/Chinese descent and can haggle a good price for me. I've got to bring back gifts, or I cannot go home. Well, catch you later!
LIZ CHILSEN, Photography professor, writes: Happy New Year! I thought I'd take advantage of the newness of the year to plunge in on this blog. Even as I write "Happy New Year," though, I am aware that in China, this is not New Year's day, but just another Monday in January.
I’m really excited about this trip, and am busily preparing, reading, packing, worrying about having enough memory cards for my camera, etc. I checked the weather in Shanghai, and happily saw that while we're there it's predicted to be sunny and warm.
I have traveled a bit before, but never to Asia. I’ve been trying to study the language… very intimidating, actually. Looking at the characters, I can’t help but see them as beautiful designs, rather than words. It will be interesting to experience being clueless again. In my other travels, I’ve been able to rely on my grasp of Spanish and the tiny bit of German I picked up somewhere to get me by, but in Chinese, it will all be new.
As I reflect on my past travels, I realize that in addition to other countries in Europe and Latin America, I’ve been to a number of communist countries: Nicaragua in the 80s, Czechoslovakia before the wall fell, and now China. I wonder how it will be to be there. Very different I’m sure, but I’m also curious about any similarities. Nicaragua during the Sandinista Revolution was a whirl of artistic expression on every level. Czechoslovakia in 1988, not so much. It was dark and gray and historical rather than vibrant and fresh. I wonder if Shanghai will be a kind of combination of those elements; the long history of state control blended with the excitement of all the changes and opportunities offered now.
I also wonder about the architecture and the makeup of the city. We have been reading about all the beautiful architecture, and also the rapid pace of change. I wonder about ordinary Shanghai streets. Are they being completely destroyed, or are some preserved? I’ve looked at images by Howard French, a New York Times photographer, who recently published “Disappearing Shanghai”; photographs of the streets of the city that are being razed for development. I’ll be interested in seeing these things firsthand, and meeting artists working now. Hear about their interests and concerns. Learn about how they are supported and/or challenged by government policy and the current pace of change.
KRISTIN JOHNSON, Fiction Writing major, writes: It still hasn't quite hit me that I'll be going to China. I keep expecting something to come up that will prevent the trip or prevent me from going, but so far so good (knock on wood). I don't know the language, or how to read the characters, or the currency exchange (yet), which all makes me a little nervous, but I'll get by.
There are many reasons why I wanted to take this course and go on this trip. After taking Elena Valussi's Eastern Humanities class I became fascinated with certain aspects of Chinese culture and history. China has influenced many aspects of my life from religion, to food, to being a huge influence over martial arts, which is a huge part of my own life. I feel that China has influenced so much of my own life that this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me to go there and see it myself.
What I hope to gain on this trip is a firsthand experience of how Shanghai has transformed over the years. (I also want lots of souvenirs!) While I am more interested in learning about history than art, I am excited about meeting artists who can explain how their work reflects their perceptions of society and themselves as part of the evolving Chinese culture.
We leave in three days, and I can't wait to go to a country I never thought I'd see, but always wanted to.
