http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/ At Columbia College Chicago, we’re serious about our “hands-on, minds-on” approach to higher education. We like to say the city is our classroom, and our students learn from the creative professionals producing the culture of our time. In January 2010, some students stretched that classroom well beyond the Chicago city limits. Journalism professors Elio Leturia and Teresa Puente and 13 students traveled to Lima, Peru, spending 11 days exploring its neighborhoods, history, and culture. They also traveled to Cusco, and spent a day in Machu Picchu. Here are some of their stories... en Copyright 2011 Tue, 26 Jan 2010 20:03:07 +0000 http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/ http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss LAURA NALIN writes: I have been home for exactly one week, and I think I am finally back in the swing of things. Almost as soon as I got home I went from having weird stomach aches (I ate some lettuce and spinach on the last day) to having a terrible week-long head cold. I can finally breathe out of my nose today which is fantastic. One of the biggest culture shocks being away from home is that I wasn't directly exposed to the non-sense that is American culture. For whatever reason, there was more talk of NBC stabbing Conan in the back with one of the peacock feathers more so than the Haiti crisis. I mean, there has been enough talk about the Haiti crisis, but it seemed as though the majority of our society was more concerned with which side to take in this late night host battle. The most obvious would have to be the weather change. We went from getting used to 80 degree weather on a daily basis to getting used to 30 degree weather on a daily basis. The good news is, I think we brought back some of the warmth because it hasn't been that cold since we've arrived home (it was 43 yesterday). Both cultures are quite different and there are mindsets I dislike about each, but I think I am finally settled in here again. I really did miss my bed, after all. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/a_weeks_time.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/a_weeks_time.php Laura Nalin Tue, 26 Jan 2010 20:03:07 +0000 LAUREN BROSTOWITZ writes: After almost a full 24 hour span of connecting flights, bad movies, decent airport food and poor sleep I'm finally home. The journey back wasn't difficult, aside from the unfortunate difficulty I had with my awesome, newly bought Peruvian bag when the strap broke. I managed to somehow fix it and still bring Jeff's cajón, a little box drum, back safely. For only 55 soles I was able to add another instrument to his already abundant collection. Before we all left the airport Elio's nephew, Daniel, who helped me out without a lot of my translations, came and hung out while Sara, Lauren and I all enjoyed our last hours in Peru. He brought me an awesome hat with my name spelled in grafitti. Sara got one too for paying for dinner . . . a couple of times . . . (Thanks Sara!). Now I just have to unpack my things, which is a task I am dreading. As I lie in my bed, of which I longed to sleep in after only two days on our rock-hard mattresses in Lima, Peru, I am left with the vibrant memories of a country I only began to understand. I lie in bed retracing my days with an urgency that absorbs my contorted reflections that already seem so far away. I'm trying to hold on to it all. The passing imagery of multi-colored houses that scattered the mountain landscapes and the contorted faces of those who attempted to comprehend my Spanglish are flashing in my head. Mixed with the drastic change of scenery, my brain seems to be trying to readjust to the rapid movement. The sudden switch in environment that makes me say, "Wow. I miss Peru." So as I remember the people I met, like Renzo from IPAD, Instituto Peruano de Artes y Diseño, the school we were studying at, and his love for Salvador Dali and Frida Kahlo, I hope to see them again someday. To the lovely girls at the IPAD banquet who fought through the language barrier, I wish you three well. To Daniel Leturia, thanks so much for doing my translations and for showing me Peru through the eyes of which I saw threw as well, I hope to see you in Chicago in July. And to the random people whose faces are still quite vivid, I hope your smiles do not diminish. And until I can visit again, I will forever remember the night I stood atop the solarium and watched your beautiful sunset fall across rows of buildings in the distance. I'll remember how I stayed until it was dark, until it was quite and the company of friends gave life to the night. I'll always remember Peru. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/as_it_all_settles_in.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/as_it_all_settles_in.php Lauren Brostowitz Mon, 25 Jan 2010 21:16:12 +0000 GRACE ESPERANZA writes: I can’t believe it is already over with. I swear, every time I go to Peru the time flies by. There is always so much to do and there is always more to do and stuff I wish I would have done. Fortunately there is always next time, I know I will always go back to Peru. I am so glad when someone asks me where I am from, because I can respond with “ I am from Peru !” with a smile on my face. I love traveling but I am pretty sure out of all the places I go to I am always the happiest when I go to Peru, and the saddest when I leave. It's airport time again. As much as I love traveling I don’t like the airport that much. So much waiting, uncomfortable seats and your always have to be guarding you are luggage and checking the time every few minutes just so you wont be late. After 3 planes and hours and hours of sitting patiently, I finally get to Chicago. The idea of seeing friends and family is great but just part of me just wishes I could have brought them to Lima. I want them to see how gorgeous and amazing place it is. My friends come and pick me up at the terminal, all smiling. I was happy to see them and they had so many questions. I didn’t know where to start so I started off with “ this trip was just amazing.” After being in so many airports and planes I didn’t really feel like explaining anything but I did really enjoy this trip! ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/chicago.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/chicago.php Grace Esperanza Tue, 19 Jan 2010 22:08:37 +0000 KRISTA HINES writes: One last trip to Larco Mar I found myself side-by-side with Derik while he was interviewing for his story. He asked questions like “what’s your favorite thing to do at Laraco Mar?” One person answering brought up to the cities night life and casinos, which reminded me of how once we leave that night, Sunday, I would no longer be able to venture into a casino, on a night I’m desperate for more Soles, or walk right into a club with friends who are 21 and over. Fiesta is where we spent most of our casino time. The bright white light, spelling fiesta, while blinking strobes on the sidewalk, about two blocks from La Castellana, got us every time. We couldn’t pass it up. It was interesting to watch two good friends fall in and out of love with the Casinos. I played the bets a few times, winning once then losing the next, but they never had me. All in total I only lost 20 soles, approximately 7 American dollars. During our time in both, Lima and Cuzco, we were able to attend three very unique bars/ nightclubs. Club Ohm: I didn’t bring my camera tonight, my arms were sore from a long day, and I was positive someone else had theirs on them. It was a good choice not to bring it; any though the interior designs of the building was artistically and beautifully done. Greek gods and goddesses a long with renaissance paintings covered the ceilings and the walls. However we ended up dancing to discoteca and shouting “one, two, three four! Un dos tres cautro!” along with other over done lyrics found on the radio nowadays. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/goodnight_night_life_lights.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/goodnight_night_life_lights.php Krista Hines Tue, 19 Jan 2010 22:01:56 +0000 KRISTA HINES writes: I’ve never been much of a fish eater, or seafood in general for that matter. On our classes first meeting, at Machu Pichu in the States, Elio told me I must try seafood at least once while being in Peru. I told myself, maybe. While touring Barranco with Derik, we came across a cute restaurant near the Parque de Barranco while searching for a bano, or bathroom, to use. Lucky for us, the owner, Hernan Vega, spoke English. After using the restroom, I returned to Derik and Vega in mid interview over Pisco, a drink native to Peru. After talking to Vega for some time we decided today was the day we would try Ceviche. I couldn’t believe it. I was moments away from having raw fish brought to me to eat. As I poked at the slimy muscle looking slice of fish that was covered in lime juice, I thought I might be sick. However, once I got the courage to pull the fork to my mouth I realized, it wasn’t too bad. After thinking a bit on the taste, I came to the conclusion that I actually really enjoyed the flavor. The flavor of the lime was so strong I could barely taste the seafood aspect of the fish.]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/me_gustaria_ceviche_y_causa_co.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/me_gustaria_ceviche_y_causa_co.php Krista Hines Tue, 19 Jan 2010 21:38:02 +0000 GRACE ESPERANZA writes: This is my third time in Cuzco and it never feels quite alright. Cuzco is high up in the mountains and many people get altitude sick just because its so high up. Last time I got really sickness and pretty much couldn’t do anything at all. This time I am taking it as slow as possible because for once I want to enjoy my time in Cuzco. Although it doesn’t have perfect weather,(at this time it’s rainy here and cold well compared to Lima but not cold compared to Chicago.) Honestly, I shouldn’t complain because Cuzco is gorgeous. There is so much green and mountains that surround you. I just can’t handle going up the stairs and constantly feeling winded by the time I get to the third floor. Of course it is very touristy with many markets, people constantly asking for you to buy something and you can actually hear people talking English. I think the best part about Cuzco is everyone is there to see the famous Machu Picchu and there are people all over the world. You can turn one way and hear a little bit of protégées then turn the other way and hear someone with a Australian accent. Everyone is from different places yet all there for the same reason, Machu Picchu. Today we all decided to get massages because it is only 20 soles (8 dollars) for an hour and ten minute sessions. I had got one in Cuzco last time and it was cheap too but odd so I was hoping this one would be better. Five of us decided to get massages from a lady we met at a market by our hotel. She was very inviting and even showed us the place before we decided to go. Right away we made a appointment with her for 8pm. She looked very excited but you could tell she wanted to know for sure if we where really going to come. Sense the place was right by our hotel we saw her through out the day and she would come up and ask “you want to do massage now?” We would laugh and smile and say “we will be at our appointment at 8pm.” Finally it got to be the time. We met up with her and she look relieved and very happy that we actually came. The message ended up being amazing and definitely worth more then 20 soles.]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/cuzco.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/cuzco.php Grace Esperanza Mon, 18 Jan 2010 22:02:53 +0000 GRACE ESPERANZA writes: It was our last day in Lima. Time really does go by especially in Lima. I couldn't believe it was our last night and in about a day we would be in Cuzco. The weather was gorgeous like it always is in Lima. Its usually not too hot and has a perfect breeze. My favorite part in Lima has always been Barranco. Barranco is a only a 5-10 sole trip away from Miraflores which is where we are staying. Some of the group wanted to spend our last night right off the ocean with a nice dinner. Me and one of my classmates (Cristina), wanted to go shopping for a nice summery dress. Last time we went shopping we went to one of the main malls in Lima and didn't have much success. We first spotted this little mini mall. There were a bunch of little stores who all had a variety of dresses. We both looked a little lost entering the little mall and I felt like people knew we were tourist; but I still wanted a summery dress! I looked at some stores. The dresses looked far to tight, bright and just too out there! Once we entered a store I automatically said "hola!" and smiled at whoever was working in the store, then the person said something back and I completely didn't understand what they said. Each time I entered a store they said some greeting that me and Cristina couldn't understand but we just smiled. Then we finally entered a store where we both found dresses. The lady who worked there told us we could try them on. I turned around to look for a dressing room and I found out the dress room was actually a little curtain that wrapped around the person who tried on the clothes. Cristina and I both got into our dressing rooms, you could barely move, it was by far the smallest dressing rooming I had ever been in. We both laughed at how different it was but there where mirrors at least. The lady at the little store told us the dresses were "muy lindos" which means "very pretty." At the end, we both decided that store had our perfect Peruvian dresses for our last night in Lima. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/the_perfect_peruvian_dress.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/the_perfect_peruvian_dress.php Grace Esperanza Sat, 16 Jan 2010 21:59:50 +0000 LAUREN BROSTOWITZ writes: I sat on the train, my ears filled with Sara's Peruvian flute music, I bit my fingers down to the bone in anticipation. I couldn't believe I was on a train to one of the seven wonders of the modern world. Honestly, something magical happens to the human body when the eyes are forced to stare at beautiful mountainous landscapes for 3 1/2 hours. Through the window of the wobbly train I watched Quechua men and women carrying large rainbow colored bags up and down paths. Some had tools and were cultivating the land. Baby pigs played in the mud and cows and llamas grazed in the foreground of what looked like a postcard. It was amazing. In those moments I felt guilty for never even having my own garden. Once at Machu Picchu, I zig-zagged through the corridors where our tour guide showed us the temple of the sun and other landmarks. I kept gazing at the very top. Out of breath, the class and I stared from tourist face to giant rock and back again in awe as we climbed jagged stairs. When I finally reached the top of the ancient ruins, I of course took as many photos as possible. After the photo-ops and the giggles the rest of the group went down to eat lunch. The six of my friends, most of whom I met on the trip, trickled behind to indulge in the once in a lifetime opportunity. Needless to say, we packed a picnic. Something even more breathtaking than I could ever imagine occurs when one sits atop a moist plot of grass at the very top of the ruins. I stared down below at the center of Machu Picchu for twenty minutes in silence. You watch your life flash before your eyes if you sit still and quietly enough. You think about birth and wonder about death. You become the air and the mountains. Complete tranquility. You definitely cry. . . that is for sure. Silently, sandwiched in between Krista and Sara (two other wanderers that took this course like myself) I tried to imagine Incans living and breathing below me but sadly couldn't do it. I inhaled slowly as I tried to free my mind of all distractions that I have collected throughout my life in the United States. I exhaled fear and regret. Those moments and those thoughts will stay with me forever. I've always wanted to travel to Peru, specifically to hike the 2,000 year old ruins. Now, I can look at images of Machu Picchu and remember the smell of it, which is a scent I've always wanted to collect. Sara told me I should have brought a jar, but I like the idea of never smelling it again. They say scent is the strongest sense capable of recollecting memory. Maybe when I'm back in Chicago I'll catch a little bit of Machu Picchu upon the breeze. Only hopefully I don't cry again.]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/machu_picchu_looks_better_in_p.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/machu_picchu_looks_better_in_p.php Lauren Brostowitz Sat, 16 Jan 2010 20:41:13 +0000 As the bus began to tread up the hill I was mostly nervous, however the sight of the mountains and valleys calmed me. The enormous rocks humbled me. They made me realize how truly vast our planet is. Sure, there's the "it's a small world" phrase, which can often be true, however today made me feel otherwise. If we cannot see these mountains, these plains from outer space, imagine how small humans are. These mountains have been here for thousands of years--untouched. Humans, so small on a map, have such a massive impact on everything on this Earth. Today a few mountains, green hills and a community formed of rocks, which essentially do nothing for humans, really did something for me. The stone water channels, temples, terraces, ramps and giant walls were unlike anything I had ever seen in my entire life. At one point after our tour, I went over to a secluded area that overlooked not only the mountains surrounding but also the entire historic sanctuary itself. I turned my iPod onto one of my favorite bands, Brightblack Morning Light, and it just chilled me out completely. I don't know if I have ever truly been that content in my life. Maybe I have, but not like this. It was just me and this beautiful nature and nothing else mattered. Everything I experienced today was truly wonderful. This Earth's landscape rules. I don't want to leave this landscape for the cityscape, but I guess I have to... Until (hopefully) next time, Machu Picchu. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/after_machu_picchu.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/after_machu_picchu.php Laura Nalin Sat, 16 Jan 2010 19:57:57 +0000 LAURA NALIN writes: Cusco has officially blown my mind. When we first arrived, it was beautiful yet rainy. I had never imagined I'd see landscape like this firsthand. From our hotel window, we can see a shanty town. It looks so fascinating and almost cute from far away--tiny boxes in various shades atop a mountain overlooking the city. However, up close, I found it heartbreaking. On our way to the train to Machu Picchu we drove past the town. I saw children walking down the muddy hillside that leads them to the rest of civilization, families digging through the trash in search of necessities that are so readily available to myself and my peers and animals drinking dirty water from potholes. The drive through the shanty town was a humbling and emotional experience for me. I wondered what they thought of us when they looked at our faces and saw our bus. When I was in New Orleans doing hurricane relief, the locals would get so upset when people would drive past their homes just to view the devastation. I know we weren't exactly doing that because it was the route we had to take to get to our destination, however, I felt bad. I wondered if they felt the same way as those I had encountered in New Orleans. We are on the train now, and I am pretty excited. I have been waiting for this train ride for quite some time, and I have finally boarded it. We are currently just riding through the Andes Mountains. I have never seen anything like what I see outside of my window. I feel so fortunate to be on this trip, this train, this Earth. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/before_machu_picchu.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/before_machu_picchu.php Laura Nalin Fri, 15 Jan 2010 19:47:47 +0000 LAUREN BROSTOWITZ writes: As I walk through beautiful Lima, I notice people staring at me and other classmates. Do these stares simply reflect a universal, instinctual curiosity all humans possess? Or, are these burning stares microscopic in essence as a culture attempts to decipher the trends and appearances of another? Although it feels uncomfortable at times, I am also guilty of locking eyes with strangers in an effort to better understand the inhabitants of a far away land. And in these moments of silence, pupil aligned with pupil, there is a sense of wholeness that blossoms. In these moments amidst a thick language barrier one realizes how little they know about the world and those who feed from it. Yet, simultaneously I find myself trying to communicate through thoughts and energy as I pass large crowds of people I know I'll never see again in my life, hoping to transpose positive thoughts into the minds of those I cannot speak to. I'm hoping to take back feelings that are intuitive and beyond words. Feelings that shape your life forever. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/stares_and_obstacles_of_the_to.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/stares_and_obstacles_of_the_to.php Lauren Brostowitz Wed, 13 Jan 2010 20:33:32 +0000 SARA ROSENBLUM writes: As I sit with three friends to my left and one to my right, I truly realize how beautiful our planet is. I find myself constantly getting lost in the waves. The sound the waves make while crashing against the millions of rocks that create the sore line is like a sweet lullaby being whispered into my ears. I watch a stork sore just slightly above the water. It dives into the ocean and reappears with a fish, lunch. This makes me think about the circle of life. So often we make decisions and feel we must stick to our original plans. Like the fish that so quickly became the stork’s meal, life is short. Unexpected things happen all the time with no notice and forewarning. For this reason I have completely come to the understanding and conclusion that we do not always have to stick to our original plan. Sometimes it is scary to close a door on something we have committed so much time to and even scarier to contemplate opening a new door and starting something new. However, there are so many things in this world to see and do it is not fare to not explore all opportunities. Take advantage of this day because you never know when you are going to become that fish: lunch. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/life_happens.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/life_happens.php Sara Rosenblum Wed, 13 Jan 2010 19:29:43 +0000 ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/not_a_care_in_the_air.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/not_a_care_in_the_air.php Laura Nalin Mon, 11 Jan 2010 22:48:58 +0000 DEREK ADAM writes: It's no secret that I am in love... with the Peruvian coastline. Not surprisingly, it's pretty useful in Peruvian cuisines. But, apart from the seafood aspect, which I think is delicious by the way, everyone should try Ceviche, which is RAW seafood marinated in a citrus-based sauce (lemons, limes, grapefruit). My reaction was simply: Wow, this tastes like chicken. But back to the topic at hand, I've had the good fortune to do plenty of things on the Lima's coastline. I went down to the beach and attempted to surf for 50 soles (about 18 dollars). If you know how to skateboard, you're pretty much golden when riding the waves. I also went paragliding... twice, even though I'm scared of heights. The feeling of being able to fly through the air as people in their high-rise apartments wave at you and smile is surreal. And it's relaxing to to know that many of the paragliders that take passengers like myself are ones that truly live in the sky: acrobats, pilots, mountaineers, you name it. They truly have the best job in the world. One very popular resource on the Miraflores coast is the Larcomar, a sprawling three-floor mall complex, complete with a movie cinema, Starbucks (for those coffee junkies back home), and the Museo Oro del Peru, a museum that's truly golden. It offers breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and the sunset, due to the fact that the mall is located on the cliff, which is called Costa Verde (also known as the Green Coast). A couple of miles south of Miraflores is the Barranco neighborhood, a bohemian district of Lima filled with beautiful art and plenty of interesting graffiti. I presume that it's is a college-type neighborhood like Lincoln Park and DePaul University. After all, the Universidad Alas Peruanas is right on the coast and very close to a multitude of cafés and clubs. Sounds very familiar. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/coast_to_coast.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/coast_to_coast.php Derek Adam Mon, 11 Jan 2010 19:48:18 +0000 GRACE ESPERANZA writes: The gates are always locked. You have to know someone or have a key to get in. When you enter, Martincitos a shelter for abuelos (grandparents), two dogs run to your feet and short after a abuelo usually comes and greets you with a big hug & a kiss on the cheek. If other abuelos see that you have arrived then you have to greet them all with hugs and kisses. Automatically you feel welcomed and safe, even if you don’t know their names, you feel like you know them. The floor is cement and the building is red. The place is nothing like other places in Villa el Salvador. Villa is a very impoverished area right outside of Lima but this place is different. If you look at it from the outside it almost looks like a school, but then you realize there are abuelos walking around everywhere. You can smell the kitchen instantly, if it’s the morning you can smell the bread from the bags and hear everyone greeting each other. If it’s the afternoon you can smell some sort of meat being cooked and hear vegetables being chopped up. The best part about this is I am going there tomorrow, I get to see my abuelos at Martincitos. ]]> http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/my_abuelos.php http://cms.colum.edu/travelwritinginperu/2010/01/my_abuelos.php Grace Esperanza Sun, 10 Jan 2010 21:57:23 +0000